Our brief visit to “Sin City. Jr……Reno….. ended…..and now we are headed across the desert to the city without (any obvious) sin…..Salt Lake City.

We left fairly early on Tuesday morning. The trip across the Nevada desert can seem like a long one. About 520 miles, to be exact. And, the meaning of the word “desert” is relative, I suppose, depending upon one’s perception and experience. To me, the desert that blankets the state of Nevada is about as barren as I have seen. Several hundred miles of barren wasteland…virtually uninhabited, except for a few dilapidated, decaying small towns along the Interstate.

There are a few bright spots….oases in the desert….Winnemucca and Elko come most readily to mind. They are irrigated, green spots which offer a sense of relief and normalcy from endless stretches of desolate landscape that envelope most of the state. And, also off the beaten path of I-80 are fields of green crop land…..also irrigated by life-sustaining water which lies far beneath of the surface of the desert. But, for the most part, it is a journey that must be endured in order to travel from the Sierra Nevada Mountains of California to the Rocky Mountains of Colorado. People often say that Kansas is merely on obstacle to be tolerated to reach the state of Colorado. These people obviously have not experienced the desert that encompasses the state of Nevada.

But, like I said…..the term “desert” is relative in meaning to one’s experience. I can well imagine that this would appear to be fertile land to Fayez….maybe even like his front yard. I can just imagine…..Fayez relaxing in a comfortable lawn chair, admiring the cactus, watching the rattlesnakes play……

The desert was no obstacle to Fayez and me, though. To us it was another interrupted opportunity to continue talking and discussing…..and to watching the dust devils as they danced across the desert. The time passed quickly….and before we knew it….seven hours later….we drove into the parking lot of the Howard Johnson Motel in the heart of Salt Lake City.

But first, we stopped to take a look at the only attraction between Reno and Salt Lake City…..the Great Salt Desert. Before stopping there, however, we paused briefly in Wendover…..the last town before entering Utah. Wendover is not only the last town in Nevada before crossing into Utah. But, it is also the last town in Utah before crossing into the state of Nevada. How can that be? It sits directly on the border separating those two states…..half the town in Utah and half the town in Nevada. And, there is a line drawn across Main Street. On the west side of the lines lies Nevada, and on the east side of the line is Utah. And, the differences can be striking. On the Nevada side, almost anything goes….liquor stores, casinos….and other more physical pleasures. On the Utah side? Well, you have entered Utah…..and you are lucky you can buy a cup of coffee.

The Great Salt Desert says it all. It is a desert composed entirely of a layer of salt. This salt is the left over residue from an ancient inland sea which over the centuries evaporated down to the present Great Salt Lake. This desert is almost perfectly flat….flat enough that it is used as a major testing site in attempting to set world speed records for various land based vehicles. Of course, it is white….as white as a vast snow field…..just like salt is white. And, if don’t believe that it is really salt, go ahead and rub your finger over the surface and then lick your finger.

The Great Salt Lake, several miles east toward Salt Lake City, is one of the saltiest bodies of water in the world. Walk out into the lake…..and

you will have to walk quite a distance under normal conditions, because the lake is quite shallow….learn backwards……and relax! The buoyancy of the water, caused by the heavy concentration of salt, will support your body….and it is probably next to impossible to drown. Even for a non-swimmer like me.

 

It was relatively early when we arrived in Salt Lake City. Soon after we got settled in our motel room, only a few blocks from Temple Square, Fayez took off and went for a run. In the meantime, I got my laptop set up and checked my e-mail and Facebook page. Then is was nap time….a necessity for an old man of my advanced age. After Fayez returned, he also took a nap….so we would both be rested for the evening ahead of us.

There are some Middle Eastern restaurants in Salt Lake City, and we planned to eat our evening meal in one of them that night. We did a quick check on the restaurants, and to our surprise found that none of the Middle Eastern restaurants stayed open beyond seven or eight o’clock in the evening. And most them closed even earlier. Wow….what’s going on here? That’s a little early, isn’t it? It was already after seven o’clock….too late to locate them….drive to them….and order a meal. So….we went to my old stand-by favorite….Chuck-A-Rama Buffet. I had already been to this restaurant several times in past year….so I knew we couldn’t wrong eating there. It is a good choice: crowded, popular, hundreds of food options. It was a good choice. But….this will give you an idea of the amount and quality of night life in Salt Lake City.

Our night life was less than exciting. Night life in Topeka is wild and lively compared to that of Salt Lake City. Considering all that I already knew about Salt Lake City, we didn’t even attempt to go to a bar and sit…..although we would have liked to. Instead we walked the few blocks to Temple Square, only to find that it had also closed for the night. With nothing better to do, we walked back to our motel room and spent the remainder of the evening talking…..and planning our agenda for the following day.

Our only full day in Salt Lake City….a Wednesday…..centered around a few of the major landmarks of the city. We started our day with a visit to the state capitol building. It is located on the near north side of the city…..and sits in a prominent position on what could be the highest point in the city. Since Salt Lake City is seemingly built on a land that is more flat than the State of Kansas….this is not much of a distinction. But, it is high enough that it can be seen from most parts of the city. And, from the front steps of the capital building, one can get an excellent panoramic view of the city.

Like most state capitol buildings, it houses the governor’s office, along with both houses of the state legislature. The interior of the building is very simple in design….actually almost stark. But the highly polished marble gives it an almost castle-like atmosphere. The wide, barren public spaces give the illusion of being in the midst of a magnificent cavern….where voices and footsteps echo off the towering walls.

The design of the capitol building is in the traditional, classic design of most state capitol buildings….patterned after the Capitol of our nation in Washington, D.C. High in the center of the stately, imposing dome hangs what is probably the most ornate feature of the building: an elegant, sparkling chandelier. The sides around the dome are decorated with exquisite murals…..depicting the history of Utah….I suppose. In many of the long hallways there are informative displays also illustrating and interpreting the evolution of the state and its people and industries. Fayez and I voted, and our consensus was that Kansas has a far more attractive capitol building.

 

Foremost in the history and culture of the state of Utah is the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints…..the Mormon Church. Indeed, the entire city of Salt Lake City was planned around Temple Square, the ten acre walled complex which is the headquarters of the

Mormon Church. This where we spent most of our day.

Temple Square has four entrances….North, South, East and West. No matter which entrance you choose, you will be greeted by a friendly greeter. Although most of these greeters are more mature people…..not very many seconds will pass before you are approached by a pair of sunny, smiling young women. They are “missionaries”, and they are devoting eighteen months of their life to representing the Mormon Church and spreading its message. They are ubiquitous…..everywhere. You can’t escape them….so don’t even try. But, do not worry, these young ladies…..”sisters”, as they call themselves, are very low-key and are eager to make your visit to Temple Square as interesting and pleasant as possible. They are nothing to be afraid of……or to avoid. They are going to engage you in some friendly conversation: “Where are you from?” “What is your name?” “What all have you seen on your trip?” “Where are you headed?”

It is all quite innocuous….and it can even be interesting. It is often fascinating to hear where these girls are from……and they come from all over the world…..and to hear about their lives in their home country. They are also quite useful. If you need information about Temple Square or even about the Mormon Church, they are more than willing to assist you. If you want a guided tour, they will personally escort you around the compound….or they will find somebody who will. They are never “pushy” or “preachy” with their religion. They are always low-key and unpretentious. So…..expect them. They are everywhere.

There are several buildings within the walled compound. And, all of them are worth a visit…..if only a brief one. The two visitor’s centers….the north center and the south center…..have a series of on-going high-tech audio-visual presentations on the doctrines and beliefs of the Mormon Church. Even if you are not a Mormon…..and I certainly am not….nor is Fayez….they are interesting, well produced, and presented with good taste and high class. You not going to find any fire and brimstone sermons or any pulpit pounding preachers around here.

The central building in Temple Square is the Salt Lake City Temple. This is the only building you cannot visit. You must be a certified card-carrying Mormon to enter this stately building. There are, however, many exhibits in the visitor’s centers displaying intricate models of the building, with pictures of each room….along with an explanation of its purpose.

The guides will tell you that on any given day, there will be as many as forty to fifty wedding ceremonies performed in the Temple. There is a special significance to being married in the Temple….but I am not the person to explain it to you. Take a trip out to Salt Lake City and find out for yourself. They do not, however, furnish the girls for you to marry….. You have to bring your own! Much to Fayez’s disappointment.

The most famous and popular building in Temple Square is the Mormon Tabernacle. It is world-renowned for many things. Not the least of which is its shape. It is shaped like a sort of dome….egg-shaped, almost. The building is built with no internal supports….leaving the interior of the Tabernacle a vast open space with unobstructed views from all parts of the building. The Tabernacle seats approximately 8000 people…each seat with a clear and open view to the front of the Tabernacle. With the domed roof and the absence of any obstructions, the audio acoustics are nearly perfect.

One of the highlights of the tour is an acoustics demonstration. The tourists are seated in the very back of the auditorium. The guide stands in front on the stage and drops a pin onto the podium. You can hear the sound of the pin clearly. The guide will also tear a sheet of paper. Again, you can hear the paper tearing just as clearly as you could if he or she was standing beside you. And…..all of this is done without the microphone or other amplifying assistance.

For me, the main attraction of the Mormon Tabernacle…..and of the entire Temple Square…..is the huge pipe organ that encompasses the entire front of the Tabernacle. This magnificent organ has five keyboards…..and thousands of individual pipes. It is one of the largest and most acclaimed organs in the world……not to mention having a brilliant and powerful sound. Each week day…..Monday through Saturday….there is a thirty minute organ recital at the stoke of Noon. On Sunday, these recitals are at  2:30 P. M. These recital are performed by one of the four staff organists at the Tabernacle…..and by prominent guest organists. Their purpose is not only to entertain….but to demonstrate the wide range of sound and the versatility of the organ. Always included in the recital is the official hymn of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints…..”Come, Come, Ye Saints”.

As you enter the door to be seated for the recital, the guides ask you to please turn off all cell phones….and all electronic equipment. Before the organist begin the recital, he, again asks people to be considerate and turn off their cell phones…..to please not record the recital. He (and there is also one “she” on the staff) will ask you to hold all applause until the end of the program…..and if you want to leave, leave during a pause after the first selection has been completed.

These all seem like reasonable requests. They make it possible for the people to sit and enjoy the music without interruption. But…..it is absolutely amazing how many clods, jerks, yayhoos and low-lifes come to visit these recitals…..and decide halfway through the program to pack up their stuff and leave…..crowding in front of people as they push their way to the aisle, usually muttering to each other as they leave. Remember…..this building has almost perfect acoustics…..and the sound carries over the entire auditorium. One has to wonder if this is the first time they have been off the farm…..or if this is the first time they have come out of their cave! I can imagine that most of the people who are trying to enjoy the concert are not having very Christian-like thoughts about them. I know I didn’t!

As I sit and listen to the recital….and even after I leave at the end of the recital….I often wish that I had taken my piano lessons more seriously when I was young….and that I wish that I would have stuck with them. If I had…..maybe I would be sitting in front of that great organ performing for thousands of people each year. But….no chance of that. I would have had to become a Mormon. You can also attend the choir rehearsal on Thursday evening—and also the nationally telecast program, “Music and the Spoken Word” on Sunday morning.

In the afternoon, we visited the Conference Center….directly across the street from Temple Square. This is a mammoth building which was built to accommodate visitors and delegates from the Mormon Church around the world who attend the semi-annual church conference. The main auditorium seats 18,000 people….. And, again, the chamber is constructed with no internal obstructions or barriers. A virtual masterpiece of architectural design and engineering. At the front of the Conference Center stands another colossal pipe organ…..every bit as powerful and expressive as the organ across the street in the Tabernacle.

 

 

 

 

Fayez and I were fortunate enough to have a personal guided tour through the buidling. Our knowledgeable guide…a woman who volunteers her time…showed us the major attractions of the building…..and then took us to the rooftop which covers close to a city block….and is the scene of a charming garden….complete with grass,

trees, flowers…..and a fountain. Here on the rooftop, it was quite peaceful and serene. Except for the cityscape in the background…..it has an almost rural feeling.

Our guide also showed us many works of Mormon art….again depicting important events and landmarks in the history of the church. All of the art work was original…and undoubtedly very valuable. Fayez liked the artwork much more than I did…..mostly because my taste in art favors more abstract painting.

Both Fayez and I enjoyed the time we spent at Temple Square. Neither of are Mormons….and neither of us have any plans of becoming Mormons….although the prospect of multiple wives did appeal to Fayez! However, the day was informative, interesting and enlightening….and it gave Fayez another insight into a phase of Western culture.

In the late afternoon we drove to the campus of the University of Utah. By the time we arrived, the building on the campus were closed. However, we were free to drive through the campus and look at the building that housed the science and math departments…..was well as part of the medical school. The campus does not compare in size or scale to the University of Kansas. It is much smaller. It is an attractive campus, set in area of shady trees and wide expanses of green lawn.

In the evening we ate our supper in a restaurant serving food from Nepal…..and appropriately named the Katmandu Restaurant. It was not quite a Middle Eastern restaurant…..but it was exotic enough to satisfy for culinary tastes at the time. Actually, I do not remember a lot about it, except we had to wait an extraordinary length of time for our food…..probably because they had to special order it from Katmandu.

Throughout the time we spent in Salt Lake City, we did quite a lot of driving in various parts of the city. I am always impressed by the cleanliness and orderliness of the city. Of course, Brigham Young laid out the city in a very logical fashion….making Temple Square the center of the city. All streets are numbered from that reference point. If you ever get lost, simply find one of the four Temple avenues, and eventually you will find your way back to the center of the city.

I also cannot escape noticing another rather obvious aspect of the city: the lack of ethnic and national and racial groups. Maybe it is better than it once was, however. I recall a trip that I made with some friends back in the mid-seventies. We were walking in the downtown area when one of my friends turned to me and remarked, “Have you noticed something strange about this town?”

“No,” I replied. “What is it”

“We haven’t seen even one Black person since we got here.”

Today seventy-five percent of the population is White. Two and seventh tenths percent (2.7%) is Black. However, approximately twenty-five percent of the population is Hispanic or Latino. So, there is some diversity of population in the city today. Although Utah has the seventh lowest crime rate in the nation, Salt Lake City still has a serious problem with gangs. And we drove through areas where we would not want to be walking after the sun goes down…..like most other American cities, I suppose.

 

OK…..it is Thursday…..we have our stuff packed….and we are ready to set off for our last scenic, vacation stop….Grand Lake, Colorado. We enjoyed our short sojourn in Salt Lake City. It was another of those cities that Fayez decided would be a good place to live. I think it was the academic life that abounds there….plus the fact that the city is orderly, manageable, full of educational, recreational and cultural activities. Since Fayez derives most of his pleasure from studying….the lack of social late night opportunities would not be an obstacle for him. And, also we have to consider its setting: an oasis in the middle of the desert.

There isn’t much to say about the trip from Salt Lake City to Grand Lake. More desert; more sage brush; more little towns dotting the highway. In fact, our stops between the two destinations were few. We stopped in Kremmling, Colorado, to buy a couple bottles of energy drink to keep us awake for the last few minutes of our drive….and then proceeded on to our final destination: the Elk Creek Campground, located just a few hundred feet outside the entrance to Rocky Mountain National Park.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I had stayed in this campground the previous year, and I was already more or less acquainted with the woman who owns the place. She remembered me…..and also the cabin we had stayed in the previous autumn. On this trip she “upgraded” our cabin to the one nearest the showers….a thoughtful gesture, I thought. An additional advantage to having this particular cabin was the fact that it was near enough to the office that we actually had Internet access……something we did not have in the former cabin.

Because it was still early in the season, we had no campground neighbors. This gave us the freedom to behave normally….talking and laughing…..without worrying about disturbing our fellow campers. And, this was rather important because we tend to sit in front of our campfire rather late at night and talk. We always try to be considerate campers……and Do Unto Others as We Would Have Them Do to Us. With no nearby neighbors, this objective became much easier.

Following our established routine…..Fayez went for a run on some of the mountain roads, while I set up my laptop to check my e-mail…followed by a restful nap. Upon his return, Fayez took a shower…and then slept for a few minutes himself. We drove the short distance to the village of Grand Lake to buy some wood for our campfire. Then we retraced our route back south along Grand Lake, down the highway to the forlorn little tourist town of Granby. We needed to buy food for our evening meal. I have been to Granby on other trips, and I thought I was fairly familiar with the little town. But the grocery store was not where I remembered it….and I have a long memory. More than a little bit frustrated, we stopped in a souvenir shop to inquire what had happened to it. The owner of the store told us that with the development of a new mall about a mile south of town, the grocery store, along with other small stores, had been forced out of business. There are usually bad consequences when big business moves in….but what can I say? Is this the price we pay for “progress”? For his help….maybe because we felt just a little sorry for him…..Fayez bought some post cards before we left.

When we returned to the campground, we discovered that we still needed one item for our supper….and I have forgotten what it was. Anyways, I went back to the campground office….which also serves as a little store with some very basic items…..to buy it. While I was there, the lady owner told me quite proudly that they had bought two new chairs and had put them on the front porch of our cabin for us to use. I didn’t have the heart to tell her that we had brought our own camping chairs…..and that they were quite comfortable….and that we intended to use them. But, it was nevertheless a kind and thoughtful gesture.

At night, we enjoyed our last campfire of the trip; we enjoyed the last feast that Fayez would prepare; and we enjoyed the last opportunity to sit and talk late into the night.

Bright and early the following morning…..a Friday….we packed our belongings for the last time and headed for home. Elk Creek Campground will always be one of my destinations when I am traveling in the Rocky Mountain area.

Fortunately for us, the highway through Rocky Mountain National Park was open. And, with my valuable senior citizens pass, we began our last sightseeing adventure of the trip. This was my first trip through Rocky Mountain National Park in the “winter” season…..even though it was the last of May. It was certainly a different environment than the summer season. The green forests were replaced by a snow-covered landscape. There were no wild flowers growing in the fields and on the mountain slopes. There were no little chipmunks eagerly begging for food. And, of course, the traffic was sparse…which may have been the main attraction of the Park that day.

There was a kind of grandeur, however, of the snow-covered mountains that towered above the landscape. The day was cloudy…..overcast skies with thick dark clouds hanging in the sky and creating an illusion of an impending storm….a storm that never came, but still produced a dark, ominous, mysterious atmosphere. The popular gift shop at the summit of the Park had not opened for the

season yet, and the parking lot was still covered with the winter’s snow. But, that was OK……the rest rooms were open….and that was what was really important. We were in a hurry, so we continued our descent into Estes Park……and then somehow the GPS found the correct highway that would whisk us south to good old I-70…..and an almost straight short toward home.

Our vacation ended….sixteen days after it started….after driving almost 4500 miles…..to Paradise and back. It was an awesome sixteen days. Vacations are measured not only for the sights we see…..and, in our case, we saw an abundance spectacular, informative, and awe-inspiring sights. But, for me, they are also judged by the quality and quantity of time I spend with somebody I like and respect. When I consider these two criteria together…..this vacation would definitely be awarded an A+.